Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and tourists alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious list of world cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it becomes part of a global network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "stands as proof of its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this venerable city is hardly a shock to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the spotlight for what has perennially characterized its soul: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from morning until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and elevated to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on countless corners, there are little shops and stalls – hidden treasures that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and demanding. The vendor whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but note that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will encourage more people worldwide to explore these tales and visit the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
